"Fight Club" Jacket

We have all had those defining moments when we noticed a film personality on the silver screen wearing a fantastic leather jacket. Or maybe you fell in love with James Dean’s iconic red windbreaker. You thought it looked so great and you knew someday you would have one just like it. This is a forum to discuss those jackets.

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smirkingrevenge
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby smirkingrevenge » Mon Jun 02, 2014 1:01 pm

Speak to jonathan about thinner leather, i have one in thinner leather and it does hang nicely. the leather is a bit more delicate though, its lambskin. warmer than the thicker jacket though.
None of you understand. I'm not locked in here with you. It is you who is locked in with me.

Tyler Durden
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby Tyler Durden » Tue Jun 03, 2014 7:01 am

Ahah you guys are still on this jacket ! :)

Nice ! Since I worked to make it with JAL and finally got mine (im the first) i totally go away and never worn it :lmfao:

I can sell mine if someone is interested.

Anyway, great to see some hard fan like smirkingrevenge who continue to drive this topic

exogen
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby exogen » Tue Jun 03, 2014 3:35 pm

I definitely want the thinner leather, but the color has to be right on the money and the texture. I basically want it to look like the movie. An even more exact replica than the standard JAL. Once again, the current JAL, which I own, is really nice, but it isn't exactly what I wanted. I did not know Jonathan did custom orders otherwise I would have chosen a different leather.

The real question is should I search for a leather specialist to match the kind I want.

smirkingrevenge
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby smirkingrevenge » Tue Jun 03, 2014 4:59 pm

Yes. But you won't have to look very far. Jonathan is a leather specialist. Ask jonathan for samples
None of you understand. I'm not locked in here with you. It is you who is locked in with me.

exogen
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby exogen » Tue Jun 03, 2014 11:39 pm

See I understand that he is, I guess I will have to review it with him. But why does he not have a more movie accurate leather option already? I thought he used the one he uses for the current JAL because it was the most accurate he could find to be as close to screen accuracy as possible. Unless perhaps it is because he is trying to keep the cost down and a more accurate leather is not something he has found as of yet for a price that is affordable for most?

smirkingrevenge
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby smirkingrevenge » Wed Jun 04, 2014 12:58 am

They've just had this exact discussion on the RPF. And it's simply because that leather no longer exists because it was 15 years ago. If the film was 2 years ago it might have been different. Plus it's been painted, so getting the exact shade is impossible. Have a look at the RPF. There is a thread called tyler durden T-shirt sand around page 80 the jacket starts to get discussed. Lots of pictures and lots of opinion.
None of you understand. I'm not locked in here with you. It is you who is locked in with me.

Shpongled
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby Shpongled » Wed Jun 04, 2014 9:52 am

I will post some pics of my new JAL in lambskin, the same leather that AJ matched to the screen-used jacket in Phoenix. Only, this site won't let me post my pics without cropping them which I don't have time for right now since I'm at work. If I get a second, I'll update this post. Otherwise, check the RPF thread for now if you're curious.

But I wanted to note something about the collar here. I don't know about the calfskin, can't speak for that since I don't own one, but the lambskin version I have has lining on the inside of the collar which makes it a little less prone to wrinkling. Only time will tell if it will start to wrinkle, or maybe I can do something to quicken the process, but be aware of that. If you get one in lambskin you might ask for no lining in the collar. You can feel the lining in there and it helps the collar retain it's shape since the leather is so thin. This leather is super thin, a bit thinner than my JAL Mayhem. It's also extremely soft and supple. Very nice stuff.

Edit:

Ok, so I had some time at work. Hopefully these pics work on here.

So I think it's very screen-accurate except for the custom lining I put in it. The top stitch on the shoulder, which seems to have been a point of debate on here, I truly believe is considered screen-accurate. It should be a top stitch with red thread, not white. Jonathan contacted me to let me know his guys put the top stitch on and if I wanted it removed he would do that for me since we never talked about it, but I told him I consider it screen-accurate and he could leave it.

And just for some background info, AJ, who is a member here, lives near the costume exhibit that has a bunch of FC clothes including a screen-used jacket. I think it's the last stop, so after it leaves there, it's gone. So he had the opportunity to get red leather samples from JAL and go and compare these samples to the jacket, holding them up in the same light as the screen-used jacket side by side. He chose this leather and had a jacket built in it. I wanted the same leather so I used what he picked out, but threw my own lining in it.

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Sorry for all the pics, but I wanted to be thorough. I wrote a more detailed description on the RPF. I'll copy and paste some of it here:

My JAL came on Friday. It's beautiful and really impressive. I have to be honest, this jacket never did it for me as much as the Mayhem and I was a little unsure how I would like it being this red too, but it really turned out to be gorgeous and I adore it. I might still like the Mayhem better, but I've certainly been wearing this one more lately.

I think it is extremely close to the original. The leather isn't as wrinkly yet, and I think that would definitely take some time, but water could help that. I need to do some testing on the leather sample I have before I do anything drastic, but I am fairly willing to experiment on this jacket. The buttons are different, as all JALs are, but otherwise I think it is pretty spot on. The only other thing that's off in my mind is the custom lining I put in, but I actually really LOVE this lining and I am very happy to have it in there. Big thanks to Rupe for the inspiration!

The final thing I want to mention is the fit. It seems very accurate to me. It also occurred to me that the way the jacket is worn is very dependent on the posture of the person, which could maybe cause some confusion. I think you need to wear this jacket, at least mine, with great posture – shoulders straight and chest pushed out appropriately. I don't always have the best posture, as I think most people don't and I have to wonder if over time this has influenced people's perceptions of the fit.

I have noticed that this addresses a few things: It addresses the length of the sleeves. When worn with the shoulders wider and good posture, the sleeve length is about down to the knuckle. In other positions, the cuff is higher, such as in the iconic image of Brad outside the bar when he has his hands on his hips at the beginning of the movie. During the Raymond K Hessel scene, the length of the sleeves looks longer and the back of the jacket looks to have some room for movement, suggesting he's wearing the jacket looser in the shoulders. Also, this addresses the look that Dan picked up on where the shoulders look a bit wider. This pushes the shoulders of the jacket back a bit. The shoulder pads help a lot with this. And then finally, this also makes the chest more open. When you combine this with the collar folded over, enough chest is exposed.

I'm not sure how well I explained that, but the point is that Brad Pitt's posture has a great effect on the fit of the jacket, which is fairly obvious I guess but I think something that is often overlooked when analyzing the cut of these jackets. Especially since so many people don't have the greatest posture.

Anyway, here are some pics. Thanks to everyone here and at FilmJackets for their input over time, I can't find any stitching that is off. Particular thanks go to Jonathan of course, and AJ for taking the time to be thorough about checking with the screen-used jacket and getting the ball rolling on this idea. Cheers!

exogen
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby exogen » Wed Jun 04, 2014 3:14 pm

@ Shpongled

thanks for the detailed post!

I think the jacket should break in with time, no need to add water. Water damages the leather, trust me. Just let it break in naturally. After a month of waring it you should already start to see significant changes.

Those pics you provided were, good, but the jacket comes out with an almost purple tint to it in most of the pictures. Can you take some more with a different camera or different lighting etc, to give us a better idea of the true color?

Edit: does anyone have a link to that other thread?

smirkingrevenge
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby smirkingrevenge » Wed Jun 04, 2014 5:37 pm

OK the ebay jacket has arrived, about a week earlier than expected. Firstly, its very different from my existing one. The leather is darker red, the buttons are smaller and more like the original and the stitching is closer to the colour of the jacket. sort of pinky red. The good news, it fits beautifully. Its baggy but in a very tyler durden way. My other jacket that i have had for 5 years i'm pretty much convinced now that I received someone elses jacket or Jonathan made the wrong jacket. I asked for a 40 in the dark leather and I got a 38 in a lighter leather, but just didn't realise. I have taken some comparison pictures and annoyingly, they look the same as its night time and artificial lighting plus camera on phone is not reacting to the colour very well. Now the bad news! There is no bad news! Its amazing. its the jacket i wanted 5 years ago and didn't get.

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Sorry I cant capture the colour properly, i'll try and get some in the daylight tomorrow if i can. The only thing i would change is the sleeves are about an inch too long, other than that, i got the dream JAL for 129.00GBP. Amazing.

Oh and though its bigger than my older one, it weighs just a little less but the leather is the same thickness. So it must be a lower density. Calf? I don't know. but i prefer the colour, its much richer. Either that or my older one has just faded more than I thought it had.
None of you understand. I'm not locked in here with you. It is you who is locked in with me.

Shpongled
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby Shpongled » Thu Jun 05, 2014 3:25 pm

I love that you were the one to win that jacket Rupe. If anyone deserved to get it, it's you. Good news for us all!

exogen wrote:@ Shpongled

thanks for the detailed post!

I think the jacket should break in with time, no need to add water. Water damages the leather, trust me. Just let it break in naturally. After a month of waring it you should already start to see significant changes.

Those pics you provided were, good, but the jacket comes out with an almost purple tint to it in most of the pictures. Can you take some more with a different camera or different lighting etc, to give us a better idea of the true color?

Edit: does anyone have a link to that other thread?


Sure thing, happy to share my journey.

I'm hesitant about using water and I'm not sure it needs it. But I also want to know how much I need to worry about getting caught in the rain so I'm going to test a bit on the sample leather. It's already breaking in nicely but it will take some time this time of year. The season for wearing it here is pretty much over, but I wear it inside all the time still.

Yep, those pics are a bit purpley, which is the lighting of my apartment and not the leather. The leather is not purple at all, really more pink if anything. I'd say this new one is a "candy red" while the Mayhem is a "cherry red." I'll nag my girlfriend to take some more pics outside when we get a chance. Might be a few days but I'll try to get it in some different lighting for you.

This leather is really great, but the color issue is something I don't think will ever be solved. Since the jacket was painted basically daily, the color is bound to change slightly. Not to mention, the screen-used jacket that AJ based this color off of still gets painted often by some type of restorative person. The people at the exhibit told him that someone has been coming in to repaint the jacket. Apparently it's stiff as cardboard these days.

So anyway, the color that you like most is the best pick, really. Not everyone will always agree with the color. Some people think this one is too red, and I can see why, but I'm quite happy with it. I have zero issues with wearing a very red jacket. In fact, the movie Akira got me into this whole jacket thing and Kaneda's jacket is bright red so hell, that works for me!

Cheers!

exogen
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby exogen » Sat Jun 07, 2014 4:36 pm

@ smirkingrevenge

Can you post some more pics. That one looks good. The leather seems very broken in well and the red is dark.

With respect to the thickness of the leather to achieve screen accuracy; it is difficult because to thin and it looks like paper or won't have the durability and might be to supple. To thick and it looks like a suit of armor. The JAL to me is not bad in the body, but the collar is just to thick. Mine never seems to crease or bend like the one in the movie. Even though it will get wrinkled someone, the overall shape remains the same. I don't think you will ever achieve the screen look with the JAL, although it comes close. It is the thickness of the leather.

I think a thinner, but stiffer leather will break in perfect, or even the same kind of leather as the JAL just thinner.

smirkingrevenge
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby smirkingrevenge » Wed Jun 18, 2014 5:37 pm

Sorry forgot about this. Been away. The jacket is about to be sent to Jonathan to shorten the sleeves and be re lined. He is one more I took two weeks ago when it first arrived and shows the cut very well.

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I'll post some more when it's returned in a few weeks
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby smirkingrevenge » Mon Jun 30, 2014 3:58 pm

Ok, so I had an interesting weekend. On Saturday morning a member of this community called X-Mart who is the owner of one of the Fight Club jackets made for the film contacted me to say he was in London and he had the jacket with him and would I like to meet him. Obviously, I went to meet him, We met in a dingy bar in Earls Court, had a beer, watched the football and talked jackets for 2 hours. I can confirm that he is such a sweet nice guy and not the greedy person that some people thought because he wouldn't share information, He wouldn't share the info because at the time it was potentially a completely unique piece of clothing, as JAL hadn't yet been identified as the maker. Even he didn't know that. Now for some more exciting news. The change in the colour of the jacket, the little inconsistencies that we have been plagued by for years makes me realise after seeing this that it is very possibly screen used. It has paint flaking off it and other areas which have been touched up where you can see the brush marks. I recommended that he take it to JAL at some point to see if it can jog any memories. The leather itself is a lot thinner than the leather that JAL is making the jackets in. As in, mine, Steve's, probably AJ's first jacket as well. The colour is very, very close but not quite exact. The jacket has shoulder pads, it very well distressed but isn't totally stiff. It was possible that this jacket was used for a couple of scenes. For the most part I had to use rubber gloves but he did let me touch it, it is quite soft and a fully wearable jacket and it was amazing. Also, the lining was identical to my first JAL jacket. OK, pic heavy, i'll try and describe what you're seeing to make it easier.

Firstly inside, bad low light, but the colour is perfect, as its meant to be
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Outside, Natural Light. It was a bit rainy so we had to be quick, so apologies for some of the quick snaps

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inside cuff detail
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cuff distressing
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Paint on the sleeve
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My Jal for colour reference
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Wrinkled distress
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Shoulder Stitch
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Sleeve (Left)
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More paint detail
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This is my friend Rob wearing my Larger Browner JAL and me wearing my normal jacket holding the original.
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I'm thinking, they might have started the filming with this jacket, but perhaps it wasn't red enough, started painting it, and then moved on to other jackets. There was one very obvious piece of distressing on he shoulder that is very visible in the scene where Tyler and the Narrator get on the bus. But they are exact. I'll try and find the picture if I can. Again, many thanks to x-mart, he is the sweetest, most accommodating generous person and I felt very honoured that he picked me to share this with. Hope you like the pictures.
Last edited by smirkingrevenge on Fri Jul 25, 2014 6:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
None of you understand. I'm not locked in here with you. It is you who is locked in with me.

proteinnerd
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby proteinnerd » Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:19 pm

Thanks for sharing.

I do like how you had to use gloves to touch the jacket but you could plonk it on the table at a pub next to the HP sauce and no problem :lmfao:

smirkingrevenge
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Re: "Fight Club" Jacket

Postby smirkingrevenge » Mon Jun 30, 2014 4:26 pm

Yep. LOL. But my fingers have destructive oils and I wasn't gonna argue that! :lmfao:
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